Wallace Station: A Savory Blend of Thoroughbed Hospitality and Culinary Acclaim

From the TDN Look

After following a roundabout encircling a giant bronze statue of Secretariat, a 16.9 mile historic road called Old Frankfort Pike twists and turns alongside ancient limestone rock walls and fenceline that holds some of the best Thoroughbred breeding stock in the country.

The byway connecting Lexington and Frankfort has been named one of ‘America’s Most Outstanding Scenic Byways’ and is often referred to as ‘Thoroughbred Alley’- a nod to the industry that has been a part of the area’s history even before Kentucky was admitted to the Union in 1792. Three Chimneys, Darby Dan, Darley America, Lane’s End, and Stonestreet are just a few of the imposing gates tourists often slow beside to take a snapshot, leaving the locals shaking their heads at the habitual delay.

About halfway between the two cities, just outside of Midway and past Three Chimneys Farm, sits an aged but well-preserved building, an antique in a postcard from a bygone century. For many that pass, it receives nothing more than a glance. But on a warm, sunny day, a line stretching out the door and around the corner indicates that the place is worth notice.

The building that is home to Wallace Station has received a spot on the National Register for Historic Places, but the restaurant itself has won the praise of both Lexington natives and world-renowned culinary professionals.

Wallace Station had its biggest claim-to-fame when it was featured on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives, but most days, guests include various staff from nearby farms relaxing on their lunch break.

Owner Ouita Michel is world-renowned for the family of restaurants she has built in Lexington over the past two decades. Her businesses have been featured in the New York Times, Southern Living, and the Food Network. But Michel said she believes that the horse racing community is the heartbeat of Wallace Station.

Michel was born and raised in Lexington, but she said that her true introduction to the world of Thoroughbreds didn’t happen until she moved back to the heart of horse country after a stint in New York City and was introduced to a certain horse racing ambassador upon her return.

“To be honest, I didn’t know much about the Thoroughbred industry until I moved to Midway about 20 years ago,” Michel said. “I started learning the history from Michael Blowen, who owns Old Friends (equine retirement farm). Michael and his wife Diane moved to Midway the same year as my husband and I. They were some of our very first customers, and Michael gave me an education in Thoroughbred history. It was amazing to know right where we were living was where it all started.”

Michel grew up downtown on State Street. Her father was a professor at the University of Kentucky’s medical school. Michel would grow up to become a Kentucky Wildcat, making a name for herself on campus by winning the National Debate Tournament her senior year. From there, she made the move to New York City.

“My family really wanted me to go to law school,” she recalled. “But I got my first restaurant job in New York City, and the rest is history.”Michel honed her new trade for several years in Manhattan, working at various restaurants and attending the Culinary Institute of America. While there, she met her husband Chris.

“I came back to Kentucky to plan my wedding. My mom was so worried we were going to have a New York wedding. She begged me to come home,” Michel said with a laugh.

Upon her return, Michel said she knew immediately that Kentucky was where she belonged.

“Once I got back to Lexington, I just really loved it,” she said. “I loved how accessible everything was. I also had a strong feeling that when I owned a restaurant, I wanted to cook for people that I knew and loved, for my family and my friends.”

To read the rest of this story at the TDN Look, or to watch the video or hear it as a podcast, click here.

 

 

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Zedan Back and Still Dreaming Big with High-Priced Juvenile Purchases

When Amr Zedan’s first involvement with horse racing came as a partner in G1 Dubai World Cup winner California Chrome (Lucky Pulpit), the Saudi businessman assumed he’d found an easy game and jumped in with both feet with several notable purchases at the 2017 juvenile sales. But the group failed to find the success he dreamed of and he decided to take a step back and regroup. After a meeting with legendary trainer Bob Baffert two years ago and a nudge from his wife, Princess Noor bint Asem, Zedan decided to refocus on the sport and his return has been punctuated this spring by the $1.35-million sale-topping purchase of a filly by Not This Time (hip 1254) at last month’s OBS Spring Sale and the $875,000 purchase of a colt by Candy Ride (Arg) (hip 443) at this week’s Fasig-Tipton Midlantic Sale.

“I was a partner in California Chrome. That’s when I caught the bug,” Zedan said from his home in Saudi Arabia Thursday. “And from there, I pivoted to North America and I worked with Dennis O’Neill. But we were very unlucky. We had a lot of horses, but a lot of them didn’t run or break their maiden.”

He continued, “The problem is that I first tasted the sport on top in winning the Dubai World Cup with California Chrome. That’s when I came in. I thought that would be the norm. And everything else would be easy-winning a Group 1 is nothing. Little did I know I was spending a lot of money there and then I realized it is a very hard sport. It’s a crap shoot. It takes a lot of luck, but you can maximize the return by being scientific about it and having the right people.”

That’s when Baffert entered the scene.

“I met with Bob at the Dubai World Cup two years ago,” Zedan said. “We had a conversation and it just materialized. And my wife really wanted me to stay at it, so she kind of pushed me.”

On the recommendation of California Chrome’s jockey Victor Espinoza, bloodstock agent Gary Young joined the team and handled bidding duties at OBS and in Timonium.

“With the team we have assembled, with Gary on the ground and Bob at the background, it gives me confidence,” Zedan said. “I was contemplating just taking a backseat with it until I figured out what I wanted to do. If it wasn’t for Bob and the confidence I have in him, I wouldn’t be doing this. Bob needs to approve it and if he says go ahead, we go. That’s how we are working. Let’s see, maybe we’ll have success, maybe we won’t, but at least we gave it our best shot.”

When Zedan was buying horses in 2017, he admitted his goal in the sport was to win the GI Kentucky Derby. The Run for the Roses remains his primary focus in his return to the sport and he’s willing to play at the highest levels to achieve that goal.

“We have decided to very carefully pick horses who are pretty much Derby types and horses that could go two turns,” he said. “That’s pretty much our strategy. We are not in it for sprinters or one-turn horses. I love racing, but I want to do it right. My motto is go big or go home. My goal is the Derby.”

Zedan’s first major purchase for the new incarnation of his racing stable came last month when he purchased the sale-topping filly for $1.35 million at OBS. From the first crop of Taylor Made stallion Not This Time, the juvenile had zipped through a quarter-mile work in :20 1/5 at the auction’s under-tack preview.

“Frank Taylor actually pointed her out to me,” Zedan said. “And I’ve always been intrigued by Not This Time since he finished second in the [GI Breeders’ Cup] Juvenile. So when the filly came in and everyone was raving about her work, I spoke to Bob. Bob said, ‘She’s a good horse, not bad, let’s consider her.’ But then when Bob saw her, he said, ‘We cannot leave without this horse.’ So I told Gary, ‘Let’s see what we can do.’ I was texting Bob and I said, ‘This is our horse, get her.’ Again, if Bob says we need her, we bring her home.”

The filly has already turned in her first work for Baffert, going three furlongs at Santa Anita in :36.60 (4/20) June 26.

“She is doing what Bob wants her to do,” Zedan said of early reports on the filly. “The key is to let the horse tell us what she wants us to do with her. So far she has been progressive. Bob has her on a schedule. As to what that schedule means for her debut, I really do not know. I do not get involved at all when it comes to training her. If there is a win in her, rest assured Bob is going to get it out of her. It’s all in Bob’s hands.”

The sale-topping filly still has no name, but Zedan is contemplating naming her after his wife, the great granddaughter of King Abdullah I of Jordan whom he married in 2018. But the princess isn’t so convinced.

“I wanted to name the filly after my wife, but she got upset. She said that was kind of tacky,” Zedan said. “So I call the filly Princess Noor in my mind. But we’re still playing with names.”

Zedan added a colt by Candy Ride to his stable Tuesday in Timonium, but this time it was Young who really wanted to go home with the youngster.

“Bob’s opinion of him was, ‘If you’re looking for a Derby-type horse, that horse ticks major boxes. We’ll put in a range and let’s see if he falls in that range.’ Gary, on the other hand, was like a kid in a candy store with that horse. Had he left without that horse, he would have been crying.”

Of the colt, Zedan added, “If he is what we hope he is, that will be great.”

The 45-year-old Zedan was born in Los Angeles while his parents were studying at the University of Southern California in 1972. His family returned to Saudi Arabia in the late 70’s, but Zedan returned to the U.S. to study before becoming chairman and CEO of his family’s Zedan Group based in Al Khobar. Originally started by his father, the business specialized in engineering, but under the younger Zedan’s leadership it now includes a number of companies that not only focus on engineering, but also infrastructure, power and water and oil, gas and petrochemicals.

His interest in horses first started with polo and he is the head of and a player for the Dubai-based Zedan Polo, as well as chairman of the Saudi Polo Federation.

Between his responsibilities at home and the travel restrictions due to the coronavirus pandemic, Zedan has yet to see his new acquisitions, but he trusts in the team he has put in place.

“I get the itch to be there, but it is hard with my time being extremely limited here and being in this part of the world, and obviously the coronavirus situation,” Zedan said. “But Bob has the final say and Gary knows exactly what Bob likes. We all come together and make a decision and I think we have a good system. As long as that system works and as long as we have Bob Baffert basically okaying the final horse, we are happy. I am happy with them sharing videos [of the horses]. Hopefully when they get to the races–I don’t want to jinx them or get ahead of ourselves–but when one of our horses gets to the races, we are going to be there, hopefully.”

Zedan said he would not be limiting his purchases to the 2-year-old sales and hopes to attend the yearling sales for the first time this fall.

“I really haven’t been there for the yearling sales yet and I’m developing a taste for yearlings,” he said. “I don’t mind buying a couple of yearlings and seeing how they do. I am inclined to do it. Bob enjoys the yearlings and he has had success buying yearlings. It really depends on what is available. I think we’ve hit the target for this year. We were looking for the best filly at the sale and I think we hopefully, God willing, have found her. And we were looking to complement her with a good 2-year-old colt and I think we managed, in my opinion, to buy one of the best colts in the Fasig-Tipton sale.”

Zedan is clearly a man ready for big accomplishments in the sport. True the Derby dream is up front, but it doesn’t end there.

“I can’t quantify or put in words why I would want to win the Kentucky Derby. I just want to win the Kentucky Derby,” he said. “That’s what I really want to do in the sport. I just really want that one.”

But he quickly added, “Hopefully a Triple Crown, too. If I get the Derby, I’ll be happy, but then I want the next big one, and the Triple Crown. And then I want to do the Triple Crown again. It never stops. You can’t say it’s impossible [after American Pharoah and Justify]-with two different owners, I give you that-but again you have the greatest trainer that the sport has ever seen. And you have him picking the horses you buy and you have a team you trust.”

He continued, “We were very unlucky the first time. And now we created a new formula. My role now is to pay the bills and Bob does everything else. If Bob wants a horse, we get a horse no matter what it costs.”

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Taking Stock: Being Inclusive in an Exclusive Game

Is it even possible to be inclusive in an exclusive game?

Kudos to Sue Finley and this publication for its series on diversity and inclusion, featuring several notable individuals who’ve made poignant cases for the benefits of opening racing’s upper-echelon doors to Black people, people of color, women and other marginalized groups. However, the ways in which racing has been drifting are going to make this difficult.

Money is power, and if you take away the participation of wealthy foreign stakeholders–South Americans, Europeans, and Middle Easterners–racing in this country is controlled by rich white men (and a smattering of women), most of them well over 50. This is President Trump’s GOP demographic, a group that’s likely to disapprove of the Black Lives Matter (BLM) movement that’s exploded across the country since the killing of George Floyd and is the reason we’re even discussing race, diversity and inclusion in racing in these pages now.

It’s well known historically that Black people were integral to the development of racing in this country. Black jockeys dominated the first 28 years of the Kentucky Derby, winning 15 times since the race’s inception in 1875. In 1902, Jimmy Winkfield was the last of them to win the race and he later fled the country to ride abroad as Jim Crow laws and the institutionalized racism and segregation of the era proliferated. This was a period during which neo-Confederate statues were frequently erected purely as symbols of white power.

Almost a decade after the last Black jockey won the Derby, the third-place finisher in the 1911 Preakness S. was a stakes winner by the name of The Nigger, a black gelding by the celebrated racehorse and sire Hamburg from the mare Black Venus. Imagine racing’s legacy if he’d won the race, wasn’t a gelding, and became a foundation stallion? Black Servant, a son of the influential sire Black Toney, did become an important sire, but he narrowly lost the 1921 Kentucky Derby to a stablemate named…wait for it… Behave Yourself. This was also the year of the Tulsa race massacre on “Black Wall Street.”

One hundred years later, a lot has changed, but some sentiments remain the same. Though racial and social progress was made throughout the turbulent mid-century civil rights era, Black participation in racing has unfortunately diminished to a paltry level since the days of Winkfield. These days, it’s a Latinx population that primarily services racing as caretakers on farms and tracks as Blacks once did, and Latin jockeys are among the best in the game. Many of them have experienced discrimination along the way, as Angel Cordero, Jr. noted recently in his comments in TDN. They stand to benefit from the BLM movement, which in a manner and scale not seen since the civil rights movement, is pointing out widespread and systemic societal and institutional racism. It’s significant that about 20 jocks took a knee in the paddock at Belmont Park a month ago in a show of solidarity with BLM and the Floyd protestors.

BLM is effecting change, and you’ve seen many examples of this over the last month. NASCAR has banned the Confederate flag and made a notable and unexpected stand supporting Black Lives Matter. Other sports, companies, well-known individuals, and universities have taken a stand as well or made policy changes resulting from the movement’s activism. Mississippi recently retired its Confederate-influenced state flag and the University of Florida did away with its popular “Gator bait!” chant, a local term that has an historical but little-known connection to alligator hunters who used young Black children as bait. Yes, this is true, and I’ve read newspaper clippings from the early 1900s on this.

BLM isn’t a radical or terrorist group, as some “Law and Order” Trump supporters have portrayed it. It’s a movement advocating for equality. Racing should embrace this in a combined statement from its various industry groups and tracks. So far, a smattering of tracks, a few organizations, and some individuals have responded with statements against racism and advocated for diversity and inclusion, but none that I can recall has mentioned Black Lives Matter by name.

I believe that The Nigger’s toxic name (along with his pedigree) has been deliberately purged from The Jockey Club’s online Equineline database. I say it’s “deliberate” because the pedigree of his dam, Black Venus, a foal of 1896, is still in the database, and there are two British-bred horses from the 1950s named Nigger in there as well, but they’re not American-registered and not the responsibility of TJC.

I don’t know when The Nigger was deleted–or maybe he wasn’t ever included online – but that he’s not included is acknowledgment that TJC was embarrassed by a part of its history as the registrar of the breed. Should he have been deleted or not included? I don’t think so. This isn’t the same as dismantling Confederate statues built well past the Civil War era in the early 1900s or the 1950s solely as white power symbols. Those structures were erected to intimidate. The Nigger, on the other hand, exists in American racing history as a stakes-winning foal of 1908. Taking him out of the database obscures the historical fact that someone gave him a name that was acceptable for the time and that’s worth remembering as we ponder commentary on race and diversity, even if hearing of this makes us uncomfortable today.

One hundred years wasn’t that long ago.

Exclusive Game

TJC, which is comprised mainly of rich white men, has taken a leading role over the last decade in addressing issues, including breakdowns and drug usage, that have plagued the image of the game, and it has actively participated through its America’s Best Racing (ABR) initiative to craft new imagery aimed at a younger demographic that takes the focus away from the “degenerates” in the grandstand to the slickness of the clubhouse. The organization and its allies have adopted a “Law and Order” approach to the former by advocating for the federally mandated Horseracing Integrity Act that would address medication issues through a stern central authority, and a “frat-boy bro” approach to the latter through imagery that celebrates the swanky, white, and young fedora-wearing crowd enjoying a day at the races at major tracks.

If this sounds as if racing is getting more exclusive and less inclusive these days, it is. In fact, today there are smaller groups of people controlling larger pieces of the pie and economics plays a big role in this. This type of consolidation is evident in racehorse ownership (partnerships), conditioning (super-trainers), track management (Stronach Group), and the bloodstock industry (big books for elite stallions).

Against this backdrop of a smaller club of more powerful folks, it’s going to be harder for racing to be diverse and inclusive, especially because racing’s leaders and their acolytes, who across the board tend to be younger versions of their bosses, dictate policies meant mostly to preserve or enhance their interests. But sometimes they assume that what’s best for them is what’s in the best interests of everyone in the sport, which isn’t true and has led to some fissures between groups.

Even when racing thinks it’s being edgy and different, it’s frequently not, and it sometimes perpetuates behaviors that aren’t amenable to diversity and inclusion. For example, it seems every major track has had at one time or another some association with Barstool Sports, an irreverent group that appeals to frat-boy culture and unabashedly spouts misogynist and racially insensitive commentary for cheap laughs. This shouldn’t be acceptable, and a Black person or woman executive might have explained this in the boardroom.

Diversity and inclusion can only help racing navigate the future.

Keeneland walked the talk Thursday afternoon. Keeneland’s Trustees, many of whom are TJC members, announced that for the first time in its history a woman, Shannon Bishop Arvin, would be named its CEO at the end of the year to replace the retiring Bill Thomason.

Perhaps there’s hope yet.

Sid Fernando is president and CEO of Werk Thoroughbred Consultants, Inc., originator of the Werk Nick Rating and eNicks.

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Assiniboia Filly’s Win Streak Halted

Hidden Grace (Going Commando), a Manitoba-bred who had won nine consecutive stakes to start her career, got edged out by her own stablemate in a quest for a perfect 10-for-10 race record in Wednesday night’s $25,000 Canada Day S. at Assiniboia Downs.

Miss Imperial (Maclean’s Music), off as the as the .55-1 favorite, battled through a three-way fight for the lead and then had enough left to hold off the onrushing 1.35-1 Hidden Grace to post a one-length win. The four remaining entrants were scattered nine lengths behind the top two in the 7 1/2-furlong open stakes.

Both 4-year-old fillies are trained by Murray Duncan, but they do not share similar career paths.

Hidden Grace is owned and was bred by Cam Ziprick, Charles Fouillard and Barry Arnason. She has raced exclusively in Manitoba (nine starts) and Alberta (one start), with five of her nine victories coming against provincial-bred or sales-restricted company.

Hidden Grace’s breeder and owner partnerships are comprised of some of the same people who bred and raced fellow Manitoba-bred Escape Clause (Going Commando). That mare retired last autumn with 20 wins after emerging from Assiniboia to win stakes at Del Mar and Santa Anita before losing only by a nose to Midnight Bisou (Midnight Lute) in the 2019 GI Apple Blossom H. at Oaklawn.

Miss Imperial, owned in partnership by her trainer and the Estate of Garylle B. Stewart, now sports a 9-for-19 record after starting her career on the New York, Fair Grounds, and Oaklawn circuits. Duncan claimed her at Oaklawn Apr. 11 for $25,000, and since shipping to Winnipeg, Miss Imperial has now won three straight open stakes.

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